- I. Fortress railing products type
- II. How to install fortress deck railing
I. Fortress railing products type
1. Fortress iron railing
Fortress iron railing is a pre-welded, easily customized, and enhanced version of traditional wrought iron railing.. It enhances the beauty of any patio, deck, or balcony with unsurpassed quality. While the railing has a clean, classic appearance, its versatility makes it suitable for use on a variety of applications and surfaces. Besides, they are virtually maintenance free.
2. Aluminum railing solutions
Aluminum does not corrode, rot, or decay when exposed to the elements. Aluminum railings retain their size and shape even when exposed to extreme weather conditions.When compared to steel railings, aluminum is more malleable and retains its structural integrity better than steel.
3. Steel fortress railings
Deck railings made of steel are sturdy and long-lasting. FE26 metal railing is incredibly low-maintenance, and pre-welded panels make installation a breeze. Fortress FE26 is now in stock and ready to ship.
4. Composite railings
To transform your outdoor space into a living space, Fortress® Railing Products offers a comprehensive line of railing solutions including cable, wood and iron. Fortress® Railing Products is a category creator, offering products that include commercial-grade, code-tested products as well as a variety of residential styles.
II. How to install fortress deck railing
1. Metal deck railing component
a balustrade is a railing that is supported by balusters. In certain cases, balconies and terraces have modest, decorative parapets (protective walls) known as balustrades. The balusters, which are supported by posts, are spaced uniformly. With its distinct shape and appearance, balustrades may be utilized to delineate an area, as the bedside balustrade in the king’s bedchamber at Versailles.
Using guardrails prevents individuals from falling from an elevated area, such as a platform, stair, or landing, to their death. Buildings, highways, hiking paths, stairwells, and balconies all have them. If a person falls or pushes against the building, they must be able to avoid breaking or collapsing. In certain cases, handrails are used to guarantee that the railing serves both as a barrier and as a source of support.
Using a handrail may provide a sense of security, support, and direction to the person using it. It is common for them to be supported by posts or attached directly to the wall, and they prevent people from falling if they slip or stumble. As a result, they’re typically seen on stairways, platforms, and other elevated surfaces. Providing a steady, unbroken line of sight is all that handrails require to do their job. To guarantee that the railing provides stability and serves as a barrier, guardrails may be used in conjunction with the railing.
A railing system’s most crucial component is the post, which is a vertical structure that supports the railing. There would be no support for the railing without posts. There are several different sorts of posts, including newels.
Posts, balusters, and rails make the framework of a railing.
A top rail is the bar-like component of a railing at the top of the staircase. It lies on top of balusters/spindles and is parallel to the floor.
The top surface of a step or stair is known as the tread. It serves as the foundation for human activity.
You should be aware, however, that several of these phrases have other meanings. We’re just concerned with how they’re used in the railing sector at now.
2. Metal railing installation process
Starting with the posts, screw them down into the joists.
Make sure you’ve read the section on installing the handrail posts before moving on to the next step.
The whole length of the railing section should be constructed from 2x2s, with a 1×2 cap at either end of the 2×2.
Two screws or nails are required to avoid twisting of 1x2s when attached to 2x2s.
Five pieces of 2x2s were cut to the proper spacing between the posts for this deck.
The bottom rails should be cut from 2×2 to fit the spacing between the posts of each railing.
Cutting the 2×4 bottom rail at an 11-degree angle was necessary because of the 45-degree corner portion. With the use of a sliding bevel and a scrap 2×4, I was able to accurately replicate the angle of the post. Cut off one end. Backtrack and take an accurate measurement of the distance between the inside corners of the opposing posts. Your rails distance from the floor should be measured. You can trace and cut the sliding bevel angle. The posts should be perfectly aligned with this as your bottom rail.
_ Step 4
Bottom rail sections should be installed between each post, with a maximum of four inches of clearance from underside of the bottom rail to decking
Keep the lengthy spans from drooping by installing a tiny block in the centre.
At the bottom rails’ opposite ends, you may use the same blocking technique.
A toe-nail style of screwing the bottom rail into each post follows.
As with the bottom rails, use 2x4s for the top rail components. A nail should be driven into the bottom of the 1×2 picket portion to keep it in place on top of both of the bottom rails.
Then, position the top rails over the railing pieces and screw the 1×2 to the bottom face of the top railing from beneath.
It is now time to fasten each of the top rails in place using the toe nail technique.
_ Step 6
Railings on a completed deck. In this specific railing design, the top rails are fractured and the railing posts are sporadic. Using your favorite post cap, dress up the railing posts. Preformed metal caps were employed, and they turned out to be a lovely touch. On the top of the post, apply a dab of caulking.
For the parts of the railing that meet the house, no posts are needed. The railing part should be secured to a 2×4 with cleanly cut ends. Using screws, fasten the 2×4 to the house. In order to make a firm connection between the siding and the 2×4, I employed modest spacers.